Unscripted Vancouver Island Road Trip: Parksville to Port Hardy (Waterfalls, Wildlife & Hidden Gems)
Explore Vancouver Island on a 10‑day road trip from Parksville to Port Hardy. Waterfalls, wildlife, hidden gems, and gentle adventure for every traveler.
Talitha Soldera
8/12/20264 min read
Unscripted Road Trip from Mid to Northern Vancouver Island
I love travelling in other countries — learning about new cultures, seeing different landscapes — but living in what is arguably one of the most beautiful places in the world means I also love exploring my own backyard.
For anyone who hasn’t been here before, Vancouver Island is a temperate rainforest filled with towering trees and lush greenery most of the year. It’s a mecca for hikers, bikers, surfers, skiers, and nature lovers, with two national parks, over 120 provincial parks, and countless regional and municipal parks.
I live in the Cowichan Valley on southern Vancouver Island. It’s the ideal location: midway between the Greater Victoria and Nanaimo areas, with warmer summers, endless coastline, and hiking trails galore.
Many people don’t realize Vancouver Island is actually quite large — the 26th largest island in the world. You can drive from end to end in a day, but only if you don’t stop to explore… and why would you want to do that?
A Pandemic Pivot: Staying Close to Home
In 2020, we had a trip planned to the Maritimes — Nova Scotia and Newfoundland — but COVID put everything on hold. We already had our dog sitter booked and didn’t want to cancel, so we decided to explore this amazing island we call home.
Before 2020, the furthest north we’d been was Courtenay, and we hadn’t done much exploring. So we decided to go further, staying in places with kitchens to save costs and avoid indoor dining (due to COVID). I typically like things planned and organized, but this trip became a true adventure. We followed signs to hiking trails, viewpoints, and attractions simply because they looked interesting. Very adventurous for me 😊.
Day 1 – Parksville
Highlights
Englishman River Falls Provincial Park
Tigh‑Na‑Mara Seaside Spa Resort
The Black Goose Inn
Paradise & Rip Tide Mini‑Golf
On the way to Parksville, we saw a sign for Englishman River Falls Provincial Park, so we pulled off for a hike. What a lovely trail!
We stayed in a beautiful cabin at Tigh‑Na‑Mara, complete with beach access. Dinner was at The Black Goose, where outdoor picnic tables, umbrellas, ocean views, and great food made for a perfect evening.
Parksville is famous for its mini‑golf — two locations, each with two 18‑hole courses. I used to drive up from Victoria during my university years just to play at Paradise. Naturally, we played mini‑golf… and naturally, I didn’t win. Years of practice didn’t seem to improve my skill!
Days 2–5 – Port Alberni
Highlights on the Way
North Island Wildlife Recovery Centre
Little Qualicum Falls Provincial Park
The Clam Bucket & All Mex’d Up
On the drive to Port Alberni, we stopped at the North Island Wildlife Recovery Centre. Their mission is “to care for ill, injured, and orphaned wildlife and to educate the public on wildlife and environmental issues.” It’s a fantastic place — we now visit at least once a year. I especially love Turtle Town.
Next, we found a farm selling freshly picked strawberries, grabbed a big container, and enjoyed them at a nearby picnic spot.
Then we saw a sign for Little Qualicum Falls Provincial Park. Off we went. Little Qualicum Falls are stunning! The hike was fantastic.
In Port Alberni, we stayed at a lovely B&B on the Somas River with a private deck and river access. It became our home base for several days of hiking and exploring. We found great local restaurants, including The Clam Bucket (the clam chowder is excellent — I’ve gone back for it more than once) and All Mex’d Up, where the patio offered welcome shade on a hot day.
Days 6–8 – Royston and Area
Highlights
Nymph Falls
Strathcona Provincial Park
Myra Falls, Lupin Falls, Lady Falls
Oceanfront cabin evenings
Royston — a place I had barely heard of — turned out to be a perfect base for waterfall‑hunting adventures. We visited Nymph Falls in Comox, then finally made it further north than Courtenay, heading into Strathcona Provincial Park. We hiked to Myra Falls, Lupin Falls, and Lady Falls. So many waterfalls, so little time!
Strathcona Park is so worth the drive — windy roads, towering trees, and hiking trails for all abilities.
Our B&B in Royston was a cozy cabin right across from the ocean. After long hiking days, we spent evenings on the beach watching the tide shift, spotting wildlife, and basking in rosy sunset light.
Days 9–10 – Port Hardy
Highlights
Port Hardy RV Resort
Quatse River Estuary
Quiet, uncrowded hiking trails
The scenery changes dramatically after Campbell River. Port Hardy was delightful. We stayed in a cabin at Port Hardy RV Resort, complete with a small kitchen — thank goodness, because restaurants were struggling with early COVID supply‑chain issues. Trucks were only delivering food about once a week, so restaurants often ran out and closed on certain days.
We did plenty of hiking. The Quatse River Estuary is home to over 60 species of waterfowl, plus many other birds and wildlife. Exploring this area was a highlight. Trails near our cabin offered quiet, peaceful walks where we rarely encountered other people.
Heading Home
We drove the scenic Highway 19 route along the coast between Campbell River and Nanaimo. We stopped at one of my favourite spots near the Buckley Bay Ferry Terminal — Fanny Bay Oysters — for fresh seafood, ready‑made snacks, and chowder to take home.
From Buckley Bay, you can catch ferries to Denman and Hornby Islands. I haven’t explored them yet, but they’re on my list.
Since this trip, we’ve made it a tradition to explore somewhere new on Vancouver Island or the Gulf Islands each year. Future stories may include:
Grizzly adventures in Telegraph Cove
Milestone birthdays in Ucluelet and Tofino
Riding every BC Ferry (yes, that’s one of my goals!)
If You Go: Quick Travel Tips
Best time to visit: May–September for hiking, year‑round for storm watching
Pack: Rain gear, layers, good hiking shoes
Driving notes: Distances are longer than they look — plan extra time
Wildlife etiquette: Keep distance, especially around estuaries and salmon streams Dining: Small towns may have limited hours — check ahead or bring groceries
Hidden gems:
Stamp Falls (Port Alberni)
Seal Bay Nature Park (Comox Valley)
Storey’s Beach (Port Hardy)
Let’s Plan Your Vancouver Island Adventure
I hope those of you who live in this beautiful area feel inspired to explore — or to explore more. And if you’d like to discover Vancouver Island without doing all the planning yourself, drop me a line. I’d be happy to help you find the perfect home base or craft an itinerary tailored to your adventure style.
